surfing is a lot like life....

it is a choice to throw yourself into waves that have the potential to kill you, or the ability to give you the ride of your life.

half of the battle lies in getting out past the break. you have to paddle head on into waves crashing upon you. that alone can be enough to deter you; to make you decide that it's not worth the risk. you realize just how small you are when you are paddling amongst the force of those waves. you will get rocked, you will get knocked down. but you have the opportunity every time to get back up and try again.

surfing isn't passive. it is a choice.

there is a moment when the wave comes rushing underneath you. in that instant when the force of the wave begins to carry you, you have a decision to make. you either pull back, choosing not to risk the thrill of the ride for the fear of the fall. or you paddle with everything in you in front of the rising wave; risking the possibility that it may crash upon you, for the belief that you can soar upon it.

a million people will stand on the sidelines and watch a wave curl over itself. only a few will ever know what it feels like to ride inside.